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View Full Version : Guide Request : Flame Polishing


Teebor
31-05-2006, 11:35 AM
I've looked and looked on the internet and I can't find a decent guide for flame polishing perspex/plastics

I have tried myself in the past and it usually goes wrong, or the results are not what I would expect. BUT I don't really know what the expected results should be becuase I can't find a decent guide.

If someone could even dump a link to a decent forum topic about it I would very much appreciate it.

coolmiester
31-05-2006, 11:46 AM
Someone did cover it in a Bit-Tech prod log ages ago but it was a great guide and great results.............just can't remember which log it was :rolleyes:

It might come to me!

Klekkus
01-06-2006, 10:07 PM
Someone did cover it in a Bit-Tech prod log ages ago but it was a great guide and great results.............just can't remember which log it was :rolleyes:

It might come to me!
I'v seen it too, but I can't find it :(

Teebor
01-06-2006, 10:29 PM
I searched the bit-tech forums today but other than lots of references to flame polishing I couldn't find a guide :(

sunnyg
02-06-2006, 03:41 PM
i know they do do it on pimp my ride, for putting waterfalls in the back seat ect. you could just watch lots of those, or email west coast customs or whatever they r called.

Toole
16-06-2006, 09:10 AM
i know they do do it on pimp my ride, for putting waterfalls in the back seat ect. you could just watch lots of those, or email west coast customs or whatever they r called.

Or just send your PC case to them!

That'd make some viewing :P

Teebor
16-06-2006, 09:26 AM
sadly its not just for a PC case, its for my arcade machine, so its would be a nightmare to send something that big and heavy.

I didn't find that guide on bit-tech any clues anyone?

wakster
16-06-2006, 06:31 PM
after a lil google i found this
Flame Polishing

When flame polishing, do not allow the torch to stop on the material at any time.
Ensure that the atomiser is serviced regularly and always carry out a leak test after refilling.

The free flame should always be directed away from the work. (fig 7)
http://www.coolercasesuk.co.uk/imagehosting/2464492eaa6d1125.gif

When the lit torch is in its holder the flame must always point away. Ensure that nothing lies within 30 inches of the path of the flame.

The edge to be polished should be clean and free of swarf. Any blackening or blemishes should be buffed out or scraped and re-polished.

Meths must not be used after polishing. However meths should be used on white/opal acrylic before polishing to remove grease.

Acrylic is the only material that can be flame polished. Polycarbonate and PVC can be buff polished. Polycarbonate can also be solvent polished with Methylene Chloride. Always ensure that the edge to be polished is vertical so that excess solvent does not run into the face of the sheet.

Whitening caused by cloroform runs can be removed by flame polishing.

EDIT image was on white background on site would be better to view in paint;)



DOUBLE EDIT

Flame Polishing
Highly polished edges can be obtained by flame polishing with a hydrogen/oxygen-welding torch. Make sure to reduce the oxygen content to produce a flame that is bright orange/red in colour, as opposed to the bluish, almost invisible flame typically used with standard acrylics. Acrylic sheet has a tendency to turn a milky white colour when overspray from the flame contacts the surface of the sheet. It is important to minimize this contact by using a quicker feed rate than would normally be used for standard acrylics. Hold the torch at an angle and draw the flame along the edge of the sheet. Practice will help you to estimate the speed and distance. If the first pass does not produce a completely polished edge, allow the piece to cool, then try a second pass. For optimum edge finish, wet sand the edge or pass the sheet through an edge finishing machine or jointer to remove any tooling marks from previous operations prior to flame polishing.


TRIPLE EDIT 4TW! http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2326

Teebor
17-06-2006, 09:33 AM
Awesome, cheers Wakster

I will start giving it a shot again, my first attempts were disastrous and now I know why :D LOL

It leads me to think of other things now as well :-

I have some cd scratch remover which is basically a liquid plastic so I wonder what that would work like.

Also after sanding the edges I wonder what brasso would do on a buffing wheel.

Hmmmmm time to rough up some offcuts and start experimenting I think.

wakster
17-06-2006, 10:56 AM
from what i could see results weren't that different from wet 'n' dry? i mean check this shinyness http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=89422

anyway yeah was no problem you can probably guess i was a tad bored...:rolleyes:

DaveMac
17-06-2006, 12:58 PM
P2000 wet and dry should get very close, then swap to a mild abrasive paste such as T-cut or your CD scratch remover, toothpaste can also work very well and is also good for taking scratches off CDs.